ART OF TEXTURING
Your complete guide to texturing walls and ceilings
 

Preparing New Plasterboards
The boards should have the decorating side, ivory colour, facing outwards and the gaps between the boards should be 3mm. Apply a thick mix of texturing material to a caulking tool and fill the gaps between the boards. Place paper jointing tape over the material and draw your caulking tool along the tape, with pressure but being careful not to rip the tape, so that you are forcing the material into the gap and clearing off excess material at the same time. Cover the tape in a thin layer of material and then allow to dry. Once dry the taped joint can then be second caulked. This is another layer of material taken wider and feathered out on the edges. This reduces any sign of the taped area, like a bump or ridge, being seen when you texture the boards. Cover all nail heads or screws with the material and allow to dry. Once all taped joints and nail heads are thoroughly dry then you can apply a coat of sealer across the whole area and once that is dry the area is ready for texturing.

Whitewash
The scurge of all texturers and decorators alike. Found in older properties on both walls and ceilings it was a liquid composition used for whitening a surface. It's key sign is a chaulky covering. The best way is to run your fingers over the surface and if they are covered in a chaulky substance then it's time to get the marigolds out! Whitewash has to be washed off otherwise your texture will not bond to the ceiling and you'll probably find it on the floor the next morning. Warm soapy water and a sponge is the best way and i'm afraid it is a rather messy job. You will probably find there is a slight residue when the ceiling has dried and this can be rectified by using a stabilising solution such as Artex Stabilex. This will also act as your sealer prior to texturing.

Painted Surfaces
The first thing you must do is to make sure the paint is sound. It can be very desceptive. You can look at the ceiling and think you have a great surface to work on but what's underneath?
The best thing to do is sponge some warm water onto an area of the ceiling and see if the paint bubbles-up. If it does then most likely you have whitewash underneath so it will all have to come off and be washed down. Another way that gives you an indication of whitewash underneath paint is if it is flaking in areas or if the paint is lifting along the edges of cracks. It is also worth running a scraper over the paint to see if it brings any of the paint off. If the paint is sound and well adhered to the surface it is still worth giving the area a coat of sealer and allowing it to dry before texturing.

Sealer and Primers
A lot of the problems that do-it-yourselfers have when texturing is due to a lack of knowledge regarding sealers. A sealer will reduce high porosity of a surface giving you more working time of the texture material before it starts to firm and become unworkable. Always follow the manufacturers instructions for dilution and application but generally sealers are ideal for Plasterboard, concrete, plaster, texture caulking and porous paint surfaces.
An Alkali resisting primer is recommended to be used on stained, discoloured and surfaces that subject to high temperatures such as Chimney breasts, heated ceiling systems and behind radiators.
A stabilising solution is ideal for friable surfaces. It penetrates the background binding any residual powdery material to produce a sound surface. If your going to texture onto Chipboard, plywood or hardboard it's best to use an Acrylic primer or Oil based wood primer.

Stained Areas
Quite often you come across ceilings, especially plastered ones, that have stains normally caused by water leaks in the past. The trouble with these is that the stains will seep through into your texture even after it has been painted. The best way to cure this is to use an Alkali Resisting Primer, which is oil based, prior to texturing

Cracks
It is very rare that you come across ceilings that have not cracked in places over the years. These are caused by stress on the joists or expansion and contraction to due temperature changes. For hairline cracks you can brush in some texture material. For larger cracks it is best to gauge along the crack with the edge of a scraper to widen it and then tape the crack following the procedure for taping plasterboards.

Polystyrene Tiles
Of course it goes without saying that these have to come off but they can leave quite a mess to the surface of your ceiling. All the residual glue or adhesive that stuck the tiles up has to be scraped completely off. It will also be prone to staining, due to the glue, so i suggest you give the whole area a coat of Alkali Resisting Primer prior to texturing.

Employing A Texturer
You want to employ the services of a texturer to decorate your ceiling. Click here for some tips on how to choose the right man for the job.

What's New
ARTEX have launched a new members scheme. They used run The Federation of Artex Texturers and then Team Build. Now you can become an ARTEX registered Texturer. Click here for more information.

It's More Than A Pretty Pattern
If you texture for a living then it should be clear to you that producing a high quality textured finish is just part of the package. With recommendations being the main source of trade every household you enter has the potential to bring you more work. So from the time you give your estimate to clearing up after you have completed the job your professionalism is vital. Being polite, clean and tidy is just as important as the texturing itself (More)

Additions to Links Page

Home Decorating Designs
The goal of Home Decorating Designs is to provide you with tips on affordable,  beautiful interiors.

WaterDamage.co.uk
UK based contractors specialising in insurance work due to water damage. Site contains useful info on what do do.